Philippe Tessier Cheverny Rouge 2023

Grape: Gamay, Pinot Noir, Côt

The vibe: You could be forgiven if Cour-Cheverny isn’t the first appellation that comes to your mind at Loire Valley trivia night. A relatively small outpost, it’s been home to some of the most formative natural winemakers to grace the French scene (see: Clos du Tue-Boeuf). Among these ranks, one would certainly place Domaine Philippe Tessier highly, as their wines have guided the region’s now-trademark “buvabilité.” This is a (very) French term for, basically glou glou, or drinkability. It goes beyond that though, because a wine can’t just be easy to drink. It has to be enjoyable too, a perfect harmony of depth, alcohol, tannins and acidity lending a sessionable quality. And boy, this is a sessionable red. It’s the perfect example of the fresh, almost nutritious, terroir-meets-crunchy-fruit Loire Valley light reds. Roger Tessier passed his winery to his son Philippe, who has since handed the reins to his son Simon Tessier. The 2024 vintage marks the 3rd release since his taking over.

The winemaker: Domaine Philippe Tessier began in 1960 when Philippe’s father, Roger Tessier, began planting vines among his asparagus farm. In 1981, Philippe joined his father and eventually took over the domaine expanding it to 24 hectares spread over two appellations, Cheverny and Cour-Cheverny. After 15 years of traditional viticulture, Philippe began transitioning the vineyards to strict organic viticulture. By 1998 the domaine was farming using only organic methods and in 2002 became Ecocert certified. Today the domaine has been handed down once again, with Philippe’s son Simon Tessier now taking hold of the reins. After completing his studies in 2019 Simon returned home to work alongside his father, and by 2020 the domaine was essentially his.